study group thinking

posted in: Blog | 6

I’ve started to turn my mind towards my next project for the CW double weave study group. There are several different “themed” projects suggested for group members, to encourage us to try different approaches to double weave, and I started last year with deflected double weave as that was what many other group members were concentrating on. My effort took the form of this scarf in grey wool with tooty frooty coloured silk.

There’s no requirement to follow the projects in order, but doing so saves me from the need to make a choice! So the next one on the list is double weave using two different structures.

I have had a few different ideas for this, but some died once I realised how many shafts I would need. My current plan is therefore to use ye trustye 8-shaft echo weave as one of my structures and plain weave as the other. I could use something a little more exciting for structure two, but I want to have two blocks and am restricted to 16 shafts in total. So one layer will have a “block A” in echo weave (8 shafts) and a “block B” in plain weave (2 shafts) while the other layer has a “block A” in plain weave (2 shafts) and a “block B” in twill (4 shafts). The face of the finished piece will all be in twill while the reverse will be plain weave.

It sounds a bit complicated — and feels it at this stage! — but the planned result is simple enough… I just have to get to there from here. I have in mind that if it works out I may have the basis for a design I could enter into one of those shows coming up next year (not to mention a prototype which will make a handy Christmas present) but even if it is a disaster then it is still a useful study group project. That’s the good thing about study groups.

I’ve been working out a draft, and it’s a slow business. I’m thinking about the relative densities of the two layers, the way they are exchanged and other things which hurt my head. Right now, it looks plausible enough on the screen, so I’m going to make some calculations and choose some yarn from the stash. More on this to follow, no doubt.

Speaking of studying, there’s a lot of it in the air just now. Judy over at Fibres of Being has started the OCA textiles course and I am following her progress with interest. Plus I bumped into a relatively new blogger, Kyla, over at Keep me in Stitchez and she’s pursuing a very intensive course of study which seems to include every fibre technique under the sun — though, as is only to be expected, she has fallen head over heels in love with spinning and weaving. Who wouldn’t?

study group thinking” was posted by Cally on 29 Oct 2011 at http://callybooker.co.uk

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6 Responses

  1. Bonnie Inouye
    | Reply

    Cally, I wrote an article for the CW Journal about planning two layers of cloth with structures other than plain weave. I find it easiest when I dedicate a separate group of shafts for each structure. You can plan one structure for the first 8 shafts and something different for the second 8 shafts on your 16-shaft loom, if you want. The lower left quadrant of the tie-up dictates the interlacement of the first 8 shafts and first 8 treadles (warp A and weft C). The upper right quadrant determines the interlacement of the last 8 shafts (warp B) and the last 8 treadles (weft D). The other two quadrants show the exchange of layers.
    To adjust for density, either choose a thicker yarn for one layer or you can interleave the two in a ratio that is not 1:1.
    Email me if you need help with this, preferably Tuesday or later- I have all 4 grandchildren visiting right now!

    To choose the structure for each layer, think about the fiber you will use and the project you want to make, as well as the look and feel of the finished piece.
    Bonnie

    • Cally
      | Reply

      That’s really sweet of you, Bonnie, thank you! In fact the technicalities of planning double weave don’t bother me too much – the part I find challenging is deciding between all the multitude of options it offers…

  2. Kerstin
    | Reply

    another trick (well, not really a trick, but I have been told that it is 🙂 :
    use several differnt colours. Say white and not-quite-white for one layer, red and orange for the other, and/or green and turquoise for one block, yellow ans straw for next block and so on. Using slightly different colours for warp and weft makes it easier to see floats etc. It may look hideous (it often does) BUT you can easily see where each thread goes. (And, but you know that, I think – it *is* allowed to design structures in colours you would never even think to combine IRW (in real weaving)…

  3. Sheila Carey
    | Reply

    Hi Cally
    I am intrigued, as I’m hoping to do the same DW project on 16 shafts. I hadn’t got as far as you in my planning.

    Please pass on your thoughts / plans to the study group as you work on it. Someone else may have ideas or be stimulated to contribute to this project.

    Kerstin I like your suggest of designing with colour that don’t quite match.

  4. Kerstin
    | Reply

    different colours: here are two examples
    http://oddweavings.blogspot.com/2010/03/backpack.html (this has 4 layers at both sides, 2 in the middle)
    http://oddweavings.blogspot.com/2009/06/six-selvedges-but-how-many-layers.html (3 layers at most)

    IMO the different colours make both “seeing” the *layers* easier, and they also (to me) make it easier to “understand” the apparent floats in these patterns.

    • Cally
      | Reply

      Sorry, Kerstin, your comment has been sitting in my inbox waiting for approval – I didn’t realise it hadn’t appeared automatically.

      Yes, I agree with you about the colours. I have been planning my draft in shades of yellow, pink and lime green, which I can assure you are not part of the final plan!

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