add another layer

posted in: Blog | 7

A while ago — that’d be a “while” measured in months, I think — I spotted that on her website Sandra had made some published articles available. The articles which caught my eye were, surprise surprise, about her explorations in echo weave and interleaved threadings. I downloaded them to read later, and later just arrived last week. Sandra describes trying out designs with two echoes, i.e. three pattern lines in total, and that seemed like just the thing I needed to do with these yarns. I could think of so many different ways of using these colours that I was struggling to make up my mind, but by using three instead of two colours in the warp I could try more of those possibilities: it seems like the perfect answer to my indecision.

In order to spread the three colours evenly through the design, I decided to use 15 shafts and offset each pattern line by 5. I was going to use a 3/2/2/3/1/4 tie-up, but then had cold feet about the length of some of the floats so I put in an extra interlacement and am currently sampling with 3/2/2/3/1/2/1/1. I had no idea what sett to use so I plunged in with a guess of 40 epi. It means that even the long floats (7 ends) wouldn’t be especially long, so I plan to try a sample without that extra peg, but I am liking the effect so far.

It looks as though it could be set more densely, but the yarn is somewhat stretchy so it may plump up when I take it off the loom.

The most challenging thing to my brain is remembering to work in 5s rather than 4s to maintain the twill line. I was thinking that perhaps I should make life easier for myself by doubling the length of the dobby chain so that it contains two repeats of the tie-up: if it ran from 1 – 30 rather than 1 – 15, then I wouldn’t have to cope with having two odd numbered lifts in a row! However, working in 5s means that for a networked treadling my shuttle is in any case regularly “changing ends” (i.e. odd-numbered picks don’t always start from the same side of the shed) so it wouldn’t necessarily help. It’s lucky that the advancing point treadling (seen on the left of the picture above) appeals to me aesthetically; I’m already enthusiastic about it just because it maintains the odd-even order — anything for an easy life.

add another layer” was posted by Cally on 13 November 2011 at

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7 Responses

  1. Dorothy Stewart
    | Reply

    Many thanks for link to Sandra’s articles, have downloaded to read later.
    Love the colours.
    Helen dyed some merino tencel for me, it is 16/2 and very good to weave with.


  2. Sandra Rude
    | Reply

    Yes, easy is good! I’m in favor of anything that will make threading or sleying or treadling easier to remember. What’s the size of your warp? I usually sett 3-design-line interleaved threadings somewhere between 25% and 40% closer than the standard twill sett for that yarn (tighter for tencel or silk, looser for wool). The colors are gorgeous – it’ll be even more beautiful after wet finishing. Glad you found and enjoyed the articles.

    • Cally
      | Reply

      It’s just described as “lace weight” so I tried it round a ruler and got about 40 wpi, hence the sett! The fibre is alpaca/silk which is not something I have used before so I don’t know really know what’s appropriate or how it will change in the finishing – if it does. I wondered about resleying to 45 epi, but will see how this sample turns out first I think. Nothing like flying blind for a weaving adventure!

  3. Sandra Rude
    | Reply

    p.s. and a float of 4 in the tieup paired with a point treadling could result in some long floats. The longest float I put in the tieup is 3 for that very reason.

  4. Evelyn
    | Reply

    I love how such a mixed warp looks after weaving this structure – colour separating into layers and a pattern forms seemingly out of chaos. Beautiful colour combination.

  5. Leigh
    | Reply

    Cally, it’s spectacular. Well worth any mental challenges you face!

  6. Trapunto
    | Reply

    This positively hums. I always look forward to seeing where you will go next with color because it’s always a surprise

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