Theo Moorman shawl

posted in: Blog | 14

I’m sure you’ve quite forgotten by now that I was ever weaving this, but I have at last done all the fiddly bits of finishing and here she is.

In the end I re-twisted some but not all of the fringe bouts — they varied considerably in how loopy they became after washing. And even after re-twisting, it is clear that they are much more inclined to loop at one end of the shawl…

…than at the other.

I am not sure why this should be, except that the less loopy end was the one at the start of the shawl and had a substantial header woven into it (I wanted to practice my treadling!) which was later cut out. The more loopy end was the one at the end of the shawl so it was just cut from the loom and never constrained. Could this be a factor? I don’t know. Would I try constraining it with a “footer” next time to see what happens? Well, that would rather depend on how much warp waste I was prepared for… but other than for the purposes of experimentation, I am not much inclined to. To me the little loops are actually rather charming so, as long as they aren’t running rampant and likely to catch on everything in sight, I am happy to have them.

The other fiddly finishing thing was that the ends of the lurex inlay turned out to be fiendishly tricky to manage. The yarn tended to unravel into its component parts and the fine supporting threads are a ****** to catch hold of. I was also concerned that it might be a bit slippery and slide out of the cloth altogether so I stitched some of the ends back upon themselves, but not all were long enough for this — and in any case my patience ran out! Fortunately, a merino and gold inlaid wrap is not, strictly speaking, intended to be a hard-wearing go-anywhere kind of fabric.

I was a bit worried that the gold tie-down warp would make the whole thing about as supple as a foil tray, but in fact it has a lovely drape. And the tiny loops which have formed over the surface of the cloth seem not to turn it into a piece of sandpaper either. Phew.

The pattern in the ground cloth comes and goes depending on the angle and the light, which I also rather like.

On the whole, I am very pleased with the way this has turned out. It has been extremely fiddly, but that was more due to my choice of yarns than to the structure, and I would quite like to try it in a less stressful medium! However, I would definitely do this again — even in gold — and am glad to have added this technique to my repertoire. Good result. Happy face.

Theo Moorman shawl” was posted by Cally on 12 July 2012 at http://callybooker.co.uk

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14 Responses

  1. Julia
    | Reply

    I hadn’t forgotten you were working on that piece – I love the gold squares and it turned out absolutely gorgeous! Weaving in ends is always a pain, no matter what medium! But you did a stellar job, and it is beautiful.

  2. Amy
    | Reply

    This turned out beautifully, Cally. Wish I could reach through the monitor to fondle it. The gold squares set on the flowy curves of the structure is magic. Nice job!

  3. margery
    | Reply

    Wow, that’s gorgeous! Makes me want to try Moorman again, since my last experiment was not very successful.

  4. Alice
    | Reply

    Oh, that is a lovely piece. Liquid is the word that comes to mind.

  5. Dorothy Stewart
    | Reply

    Cally – what a beautiful scarf and it represents a huge amount of work on your part. A masterpiece that’s for sure !

  6. Margreet
    | Reply

    Cally, how lovely it has turned out! It’s gorgeous. You can wear this with pride!!!

  7. neki rivera
    | Reply

    ooohhh stunning!!!

  8. Lisa
    | Reply

    Great to see the shawl off the loom . . .the suspense was killing me. I am intrigued by the gold appearing and disappearing as you move – magical. Fun to see the journey and even “funner” to see the final elegant piece.

  9. Alice in Richmond
    | Reply

    Cally it is stunning. I think it was worth all the work! ;))

  10. Sandra Rude
    | Reply

    The jacquard piece I wove for the CW exhibit “Glamour, Glitter, Glitz” had a metallic thread laid into the shed in places. I found that the base cloth shrank much more in wet finishing than the metallic, and I had little loops of metallic thread at the edges of the areas that used it. I had to snip the loops off, and pray that the iron-on backing would hold everything in place. That’s what happens when I try something fancy – the results may be beautiful, but they caused some nervous moments along the way. Your shawl is really beautiful, so I think you should call the fiddly bits “worth it.”

  11. Trapunto
    | Reply

    Fit for a party in fairyland! Oh, this is pretty!

  12. Bonnie Inouye
    | Reply

    Beautiful shawl, Cally! I look forward to seeing it in motion during the CW Seminars fashion show, right? It is a perfect piece for a fashion show, designed for movement and lights. This is elegant.
    Bonnie

  13. heather
    | Reply

    beautiful!!! you have me wondering about the fringe…could it be a matter of twist? if you used your fringe twister in the same direction on each end of the scarf, could it cause the z or s to go the wrong way in either of the threads? therefore causing the two to push against each other? well, its of no real consequence since the shawl is so magnificent 🙂 thanks for sharing and giving my brain a little problem to chew 🙂

  14. Cally
    | Reply

    Thanks for all the positive strokes, everyone!

    That’s an interesting thought about the twist direction, Heather. In general the same direction of twist would have the same effect at both ends of the scarf because both the twister *and* the yarn ends are reversed – if you see what I mean, what a mouthful that sentence is… But the metallic thread also tends to take the shape of the reel it is stored on, and I can imagine that this might be an additional factor. I’m clearly in the very early stages of gaining experience with this!

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